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Grooming: Pet

GROOMING YOUR MALTESE

Requirements: (1) good pure bristle brush (no nylon) the bristles of a good length to reach through the long hair to the skin.

  • (1) Good pure bristle brush (no nylon). The bristles of a good length to reach through the long hair to the skin,
  • (1) Pin Brush,
  • (1) Wide Tooth Metal Comb,
  • (1) Tail Comb (for whiskers & to part the hair on the back & to part the hair for the Topknot,
  • David Eye brite, Erase or Eye Care,
  • Potato Flour, Cornflour,
  • Cotton Buds, Cotton Wool,
  • Perming Papers or Wet ones,
  • Shampoo and Conditioner,
  • Tooth brush and Tooth paste,
  • Ear Drops or Powder for Canker/Ear Mite,
  • Nail Clippers.

    A Maltese needs one good brushing and combing every day. It only requires 20-30 minutes for this, plus 3 minute's morning and night for cleaning under the eyes, to keep him looking in show condition. Of course, extra brushing improves the natural the natural oils in the skin and the coat becomes very glossy.

     

    Regular and thorough brushing using the water spray (conditioner in water) as you clean, and will alleviates the need for frequent bathing, and prevents his shedding loose hairs all over the house.

    When grooming, whether for show or pet around the house, always do these three things in sequence, working on a small section of hair at a time.SPRAY - BRUSH - COMB.

    You groom one section of coat (say a leg) at a time until one side is finished, then turn the pup over and do the other side. The coat should always be brushed from underneath first, covering the stomach and legs, while he is lying on his side.

    Lastly stand him up (always on his grooming mat) while you make the parting down from the head to the butt of the tail, brushing the coat straight down either side. If there are any tangles or knots remove with comb after spraying first; if very bad the steel comb may be necessary but always use this carefully so as not to remove much hair.

    A small hair-clip is generally useful in keeping the forehead hair back from the eyes, and after a while your pup will wait for this to be done, once the habit is accepted. Of course, at first there is a high mortality rate in hair clips!

    It is essential, especially in males, to get the pup used to being groomed from underneath, from early infancy. Turn him upside down daily and if he growls, scold him. Should he snap, a light tap on the nose will bring him into line. This training will be a boon later on when he is in full coat.

    Using baby powder with cornstarch easily prevents any yellow stains from the urine. If the stain underneath is excessive, omit the vitamin-mineral intake for a time as this is often the cause.

    If a show dog, it is best to tie that section of the side coat up with plastic and rubber bands, to save work

    CLEANING THE EYE STAIN.
    Erase or Eye Care on Cotton Ball and Potato Flour or Cornflour. If neglected, the hair will become very stained and brown.

    Three minutes only is needed morning and night to keep puppy perfectly clean and white under the eyes. Firstly remove sleep from the eye with a fine comb.

    Dampen some cotton wool with "Erase" or "Eye Care" and apply to stain, rub lightly to so stained hair is slightly damp. Then apply Potato Flour or Cornflour beneath the corner of each eye. Grasp the stained hair between thumb and forefinger, then rub into hair so that is acts as an abrasive until hair is dry.

    When stained hair has no stain use Potato Flour or cornflour to dry face whiskers or under the eyes. A drop of David Eye Brite in both the eyes regularly will normally control stain from the dust and wind that can cause eyes to weep.

    A common cause of excessive weeping is the short hair pushing into the eyes as a pup is growing. I definitely recommend a gentle plucking of excess hair near the tear ducts only to clear the area. Never cut the hair if showing a pup.

    If the tear staining is a problem, feel heartened by the fact that pups always weep worse than adults' dogs, because once the hair grows long enough it is easy to train away from eyes with the hair clip or topknot.

    If you don't intend to show your pup you may find clipping the forehead hair solves this problem.

    BATHING
    When bathing your dog, always have the water just warm and no higher that three quarters up his legs. Use a good shampoo. Lather well on both sides of parting, but try to keep this intact. Start at tail and do head last, keeping lather and rinse out of eyes and ears.

    Rinse well with clean water and then apply conditioner and rinse conditioner out. Place towels around him and blot dry rather the vigorously rub, paying particular attention to the ears.

    It is a good idea at this stage to a little leave in conditioner if required. Then place under hair dryer if possible and brush dry.

    CLIPPING
    Since the Maltese is surely the most beautiful of all toy dogs it does seem a shame to ever cut the hair with scissors, especially since some types of coat are inclined to go wavy after being cut. If, through ill-health, ticks or excessive heat, it does seem necessary, then this is of course the kindest treatment for the dog's sake at least. It is far better to see a short-haired CLEAN Maltese than a dirty, knotted and matted one. Of course, it is necessary to cut around the nipple area of whelping bitches for lactating purposes.

    Dogs must on no account be clipped anywhere if entered in the show ring.


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